If you’re anything like my sister Jenny, you’re probably an outdoor swimming enthusiast, thriving in cold water and nature’s elements. Me? I prefer my cold plunges after a long, steamy sauna. So, when I had the chance to visit the Széchenyi Thermal Bath in Budapest on a crisp October morning, I was all in for a more spa-like cold water experience.
First Impressions: A Step Back in Time
Arriving at 8:30 am on a Thursday, I was immediately struck by the grandeur of the place. Entering from Kós Károly Street, the architecture and atmosphere made it feel like I had stepped back in time. The entrance alone was impressive, and that early in the day, it was calm and quiet, perfect for exploring before the crowds arrived.
I opted for one of the individual changing rooms, which made me think back fondly to the beautiful Carlisle Turkish Baths (currently closed, sadly). The changing rooms at Széchenyi weren’t as ornate, but they had that same timeless quality, like private spaces that had served visitors for decades. Of course, I’d brought my Changing Tube, not just for outdoor swimmers! This trusty piece of kit makes spa and leisure centre visits so much easier, keeping things modest, warm and comfortable. Even though I had a private room, I knew the Changing Tube would’ve worked just as well in a more communal setting.
Pre-Swim Massage: A Glimpse of Old-World Relaxation
Before diving into the pools, I treated myself to a 30-minute massage, which I had pre-booked. Unlike the intense Thai massages I’m used to, this one was more relaxing and a nice gentle start to the day. The massage area, with its long corridor of treatment rooms, felt very old-school, harking back to a time when remedial massage was seen as medicinal rather than recreational. It was a lovely way to ease into the day, preparing me for the real highlight: the pools.
Hot and Cold: The Perfect Pairing
Once the massage was over, it was time to explore the pools. I spent most of my morning indoors, rotating between the 20°C cold plunge pool, the 31°C pool, and the wonderfully warm 38°C pool. For someone like me, who loves a cold dip but prefers a warm recovery, this setup was heaven. There’s something so invigorating about that first plunge—the shock of the cold followed by the slow return of warmth.
It was particularly amusing to watch the aborted attempts of those trying the cold plunge for the first time. I could sympathise; it’s not for the faint-hearted! While I’m not as regular a cold-water swimmer as Jenny, I’m no stranger to cold dips at home or at USwim events at Salford Quays. It does take practice, but once you get used to it, the reward is undeniable, especially when you’ve got a steamy sauna or warm pool waiting for you after.
The Outdoor Experience: A Busy Beauty
I'd grabbed a quick pic outside first thing and admired the quiet outdoor pool before my 9:15 am massage, but by 10:30 am outside was packed. All sun loungers taken and the pool was looking a bit like human soup. It was a beautiful day, though, so I couldn’t resist a quick dip outside before heading back in. Navigating past the tourists sitting on the pool steps, staring head down at their phones in hand, I had a short but sweet moment in the sun. The Changing Tube once again proved its worth. Perfect for keeping me warm and covered as I moved between pools and outdoors, especially with that crisp October chill in the air. It’s not just for outdoor swimmers... anyone visiting a spa or leisure centre will find it invaluable for quick, modest changes.
A Few Minor Disappointments
There were a few pools and rooms closed for renovation, which was a bit disappointing, but there were more than enough options to keep me occupied. In fact, I realised later that I missed a few saunas that were open. Next time, I’ll be sure to explore more thoroughly! Overall, the closures didn’t detract from the experience too much; there’s so much to do at Széchenyi that a couple of hours flew by.
My Top Tip: Go Early
If you’re planning a visit, I highly recommend going first thing in the morning. By 11 am, the place was far busier, and it lost some of the tranquility I’d enjoyed earlier. I can’t speak for the evening atmosphere, but the calm of the early morning made my experience that much more relaxing.
Whether you're a lover of cold dips like Jenny or more of a spa enthusiast like me, the Széchenyi Thermal Bath is a must-visit.
